Sydney’s pioneer of modern Greek food reveals his new project

When one kitchen door closes, another opens. At least, that’s the case for Sydney’s pioneer of modern Greek food, Peter Conistis, who was recently replaced by Melbourne celebrity chef George Calombaris at CBD restaurant Alpha.

Conistis will now open the 350-seat Ammos restaurant in the southern Sydney suburb of Brighton-le-Sands in May. At Alpha, Calombaris’ promised menu is yet to appear. “There are still dishes of mine on the menu [at Alpha],” a frustrated Conistis says.

Sydney is still waiting for Calombaris’ opening food volley at Alpha restaurant, which Public Hospitality Group has operated since December. Public, the heavily indebted hospitality empire run by former KPMG deal maker Jon Adgemis, is looking to refinance.

Investment firm Bain Capital recently walked away from a $500 million refinancing deal, with The Australian Financial Review now reporting Public is in discussions with Deutsche Bank. Last week, Public also put Annandale’s Empire Hotel – the pub earmarked for a spin-off from Randwick’s Maybe Frank – up for sale.

“I bumped into George in the Public office,” Conistis says of his first inkling the former MasterChef presenter was earmarked to succeed him at Alpha. While offered other projects within Public, Conistis instead chose an approach from Oscars Group, which is redeveloping the towering Novotel hotel on the Brighton-le-Sands waterfront.

Conistis says the hotel will be relaunched next year. “It’s five star,” he says. Ammos (Greek for sand) is located on level 3, with a nearly completed interior from designer Paul Papadopoulos, and a massive terrace with views out over the bay.

“There’ll be a poolside dining menu. It takes a lot for me to get involved in these things, but [I knew] the moment I saw the space,” Conistis says.

The chef was also attracted to the cultural connections of the area, which has strong Greek heritage.

“Ammos will be pure Greek, there’ll be a seafood station and a take on a mezze bar,” Conistis says. He is aiming to open in four to five weeks.

Conistis continues to be involved at Ploos restaurant at The Rocks, where he is in the process of adding some of his signature dishes to the menu.

“I spent 11 years building it [Alpha], I’m proud of what we achieved,” he says.

Last month, when discussing his upcoming gig as creative director at Alpha, Calombaris praised Conistis’ role in progressing Greek food in Australia.

“I want the place to be fun. I’m into fun dining, not fine dining,” he promised of Alpha’s eventual direction.